Goniochromatic/light reflective cosmetic makeup compositions

ABSTRACT

Goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic compositions well suited for making up the skin, lips, hair or integuments, contain (a) at least one goniochromatic coloring agent and (b) an amount of light reflective particles different from said at least one goniochromatic coloring agent and selected from the group consisting of (i) particles of a natural or synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metal, (ii) particles of a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic compound, (iii) particles which comprise a stack of at least two layers of materials having different refractive indices, at least one of such layers optionally comprising a polymer, and (iv) metal oxide particles, formulated into (c) a topically applicable, physiologically acceptable medium therefor.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO EARLIER APPLICATIONS

This application is a continuation of prior U.S. application Ser. No.10/622,480, filed Jul. 21, 2003, now U.S. Pat. No. 7,767,214, whichclaims priority under 35 U.S.C. §119 of FR-02/09245, filed Jul. 19,2002, and also claims benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No.60/399,443, filed Jul. 31, 2002, all hereby expressly incorporated byreference.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

Our U.S. application Ser. No. 10/622,478, filed concurrently with parentapplication Ser. No. 10/622,480 on Jul. 21, 2003 and assigned to theassignee hereof, now abandoned in favor of application Ser. No.12/685,278, filed Jan. 11, 2010.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Technical Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to making up the skin, for example that ofthe face or the body, the lips or integuments such as the eyelashes, theeyebrows, the nails and the hair.

2. Description of Background/Related/Prior Art

Makeup compositions, for instance free powders, foundations, nailvarnishes, mascaras, makeup rouges, eye shadows, lipsticks, glosses in ajar or liquid glosses, generally consist of a physiologically acceptablemedium and various coloring agents.

Consumers have long been seeking compositions for remodeling the face,in particular for highlighting the cheekbones and/or for making the lipsfull. There is not at the present time an effective solution forsatisfying this expectation.

It is known that a volumizing effect may be produced by applying a lightshade and a dark shade next to each other, the light shade being appliedto the area that it is desired to highlight. Producing this effecttraditionally requires the use of two different compositions and dependson the skill of the person applying them. This technique is moredifficult to carry out for making up the lips.

Recently, the capacity naturally manifested by goniochromatic pigmentsto change color depending on the angle of observation and/or ofincidence of the light has been exploited in the cosmetics field. Thus,EP-A-0-953,330, assigned to the assignee hereof, describes a makeup kitcombining a first goniochromatic pigment and a second pigment containingone of the colors of the first pigment. This combination affords novelcolored effects without, however, substantially modifying the perceptionof the volume of the part of the body onto which it is applied.

Moreover, WO 01/51015 proposes compositions combining conventionalinterference pigments with a four-layer interference pigment, also knownas a “shadow pigment”, which has a variable coloration depending on theangle of specular reflection. This is reflected on the treated supportby a color change between light and dark. These compositions improve theperception of the contour of the various parts of the face or body, butthey do not create a satisfactory volumizing effect.

There is consequently a need for a cosmetic composition capable ofaffording a satisfactory impression of volume.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention features compositions for obtaining novel makeupeffects, and especially makeup compositions that create an opticalvolumizing effect once applied to a support or substrate such as theskin, the lips or the integuments. After application, for example to thecheeks, the eyelids or the lips, these compositions afford a perceptionof volume that is different from that of the support without makeup.Such an effect may be termed “three-dimensional” and more particularly a“pulping” effect for the lips or a “morphing” effect for the face andthe body.

According to one of its aspects, the present invention thus featurescosmetic compositions comprising, in a physiologically acceptablemedium, at least one goniochromatic coloring agent and at least somereflective particles that are different from the goniochromatic coloringagent, selected from the group consisting of:

-   -   particles with a natural or synthetic substrate coated at least        partially with at least one layer of at least one metal,    -   particles with a synthetic substrate coated at least partially        with at least one layer of at least one metallic compound and        especially a metal oxide,    -   particles formed from a stack of at least two layers of        materials with different refractive indices, at least one of        these layers possibly being a polymer, and    -   metal oxide particles.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 shows a color trajectory obtained using aspectrogonioreflectometer for a liquid gloss prepared in accordance withthe invention comprising Sicopearl® goniochromatic pigments sold by BASFand for comparative purposes Summit Gold YD30D nacre sold by Engelhard.

FIG. 2 is a photograph of made-up lips, showing the presence of numeroushighlight points and the high mean gloss of a composition of theinvention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF BEST MODE AND SPECIFIC/PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS OFTHE INVENTION

It has been found that the combination of a goniochromatic coloringagent and reflective particles as defined above makes it possible,unexpectedly, to create or reinforce the impression of volume, thereflective particles generating highlight points that are visible to thenaked eye when the composition is applied to form a layer on a supportand illuminated.

The term “cosmetic composition” denotes a composition as defined inDirective 93/35/EEC of the Counsel of 14 Jun. 1993.

The term “physiologically acceptable medium” denotes a non-toxic mediumthat may be applied to human skin, lips or integuments.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “goniochromaticcoloring agent” denotes an agent for obtaining, when the cosmeticcomposition is spread onto a support, a color trajectory in the a*b*plane of the CIE 1976 colorimetric space corresponding to a variation Dhof the hue angle h of at least 20° when the angle of observationrelative to the normal is varied between 0° and 80°, for an incidentlight angle of 45°.

The color trajectory may be measured, for example, using an InstrumentSystems brand spectrogonioreflectometer of reference GON 360 Goniometer,after the cosmetic composition has been spread in fluid form to athickness of 300 μm using an automatic spreader onto an Erichsen brandcontrast card of reference Typ 24/5, the measurement being performed onthe black background of the card.

By way of example, FIG. 1 shows a color trajectory obtained with such aspectrogonioreflectometer for a liquid gloss prepared in accordance withthe invention, comprising Sicopearl® goniochromatic pigments sold byBASF.

For the purpose of the present invention, a goniochromatic coloringagent makes it possible to observe a color change, also known as a“color flop”, as a function of the angle of observation, which isgreater than the change that may be encountered with nacres.

FIG. 1 also shows for comparative purposes the color path for a SummitGold YD30D nacre sold by Engelhard.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term “reflectiveparticles” denotes particles for which the size, structure, inparticular the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are composed andtheir physical and chemical nature, and the surface state, allow them toreflect the incident light with an intensity sufficient to be able tocreate at the surface of the claimed composition, when said compositionis applied to the support to be made up, highlight points that arevisible to the naked eye, i.e., more luminous points that contrast withtheir surroundings by appearing to shine.

Reflective particles can cloud the visual perception of the curvature ofthe madeup support, by tending to prevent long-lasting visual focusing,the highlight points being capable of appearing or disappearing randomlywhen the made-up support and the observer are in motion.

As will be specified later, it may prove desirable for the mean gloss ofthe composition to exceed a certain threshold, especially when thecomposition is intended to be applied to the lips. The reason for thisis that when the composition has a relatively high gloss, the treatedsupport appears to be visually even more detached from its surroundings.

The term “mean gloss” denotes the gloss as may be conventionallymeasured using a glossmeter, by the following method.

A layer 50 mm in thickness of the composition whose mean gloss it isdesired to evaluate is spread, using an automatic spreader, onto aLeneta brand contrast card of reference Form 1A Penopac. The layercovers at least the white background of the card. Measurement of thegloss at 20° is then performed on the white background using a BykGardner brand glossmeter of reference microTRI-GLOSS.

The mean gloss of the composition is advantageously greater than orequal to 30, or even 50 and better still 70, especially when thecomposition is intended to be applied to the lips.

The composition may comprise a gloss base intended to allow the desiredmean gloss to be obtained.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term “base” denotes thecosmetic composition without the goniochromatic coloring agent(s) andwithout the reflective particles.

The cosmetic composition may thus comprise, in one embodiment, a basewhose mean gloss is greater than 20, or even 50 and better still 70,especially in the case of a composition intended to be applied to thelips. The presence of the goniochromatic coloring agent(s) and of thereflective particles in the gloss base may result in a cosmeticcomposition whose mean gloss may or may not be different from the meangloss of the base considered in isolation.

The formulation of the base will depend on the use for which thecosmetic composition is intended and on the form in which the cosmeticcomposition is provided.

The formulation of the base may thus be different depending on whetherthe cosmetic composition is intended to form a liquid gloss or alipstick, for example. A lipstick base with a mean gloss of about 60, aliquid gloss base or an eyeshadow base with a mean gloss of about 70,and a nail varnish base with a mean gloss of about 50 may be chosen, forexample.

The term “liquid gloss”, also known as liquid lipstick or lipgloss,denotes a fluid product intended to be applied to the lips and packaged,for example, in a container provided with an applicator, this applicatorcomprising a handle member that also serves as a cap for closing thecontainer, and an applicator component.

The cosmetic composition may comprise, especially in the case where itis intended to be applied to the lips, an oily phase, especially an oilyphase with a refractive index of between 1.47 and 1.51, which can allowa relatively high gloss to be obtained.

The use of a gloss base constitutes only one means among others forobtaining a cosmetic composition with gloss. It would not constitute adeparture from the context of the present invention if, before or aftera cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention has beenapplied, for example to the lips, a transparent gloss composition thatdoes not prevent the goniochromatic effect and the highlight points frombeing observed is applied.

The composition may also comprise goniochromatic fibers, so as toproduce an additional visual effect.

Besides the goniochromatic coloring agent(s) and the reflectiveparticles, the composition may comprise various other compounds, andespecially at least one non-goniochromatic coloring agent.

This non-goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, fromcolorants, monochromatic pigments and nacres, and may be intended, forexample, to correct the hues produced by the goniochromatic coloringagent(s) so as to avoid the appearance of colors deemed undesirable. Thenon-goniochromatic coloring agent may also be present in the cosmeticcomposition to give it a desired color under certain observationconditions.

According to another of its aspects, this invention features the use ofat least one goniochromatic coloring agent in combination withreflective particles, to makeup the skin, the lips or the integuments.

The present invention also features the use, for making up the skin, thelips or the integuments, of at least one goniochromatic coloring agentin combination with reflective particles that are different from thegoniochromatic coloring agent and selected from the group consisting of:particles with a natural or synthetic substrate, coated at leastpartially with at least one layer of at least one metal, particles witha synthetic substrate coated at least partially with at least one layerof at least one metallic compound and especially a metal oxide,particles formed from a stack of at least two layers of differentrefractive indices, especially two layers of polymers, and metal oxideparticles.

According to another of its aspects, the invention also features the useof at least one goniochromatic coloring agent capable of creating agoniochromatic colored background and of reflective particles capable ofcreating on the support highlight points that are visible to the nakedeye, in a makeup composition intended to create or reinforce the volumeof a support such as the skin, the lips or the integuments, for examplethe nails or keratin fibers, onto which support the said goniochromaticcoloring agent and the said reflective particles are appliedsimultaneously or consecutively.

According to another of its aspects, the invention also relates to aprocess for making up a support or substrate such as the skin, the lipsor the integuments, for example the nails or keratin fibers, comprisingthe simultaneous or consecutive application onto the support of at leastone goniochromatic coloring agent capable of creating a goniochromaticcolored background and of reflective particles capable of creating onthe support highlight points that are visible to the naked eye, and thatare distributed discretely on the goniochromatic colored background.

In one embodiment, the goniochromatic coloring agent and the reflectiveparticles are applied simultaneously in the form of a composition asdefined above.

In another embodiment, the regime or regimen process comprises theapplication onto the support of a first cosmetic composition comprising,in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one goniochromaticcoloring agent, and then of a second cosmetic composition, which isdifferent from the first composition and which comprises at least somereflective particles. Although the order of application of the first andsecond compositions indicated above is preferential, it would notconstitute a departure from the context of the present invention toinvert this order, provided that the reflective particles can createhighlight points that are visible to the naked eye, after applying thetwo compositions to the support.

At least either the first or the second composition can comprise a glossbase as defined above. A third transparent glossy composition may alsobe applied over the first and second compositions.

According to another of its aspects, this invention features a regime orregimen for making up a support chosen from the skin, the lips and theinteguments, comprising the simultaneous or consecutive application tothe support of at least one goniochromatic coloring agent and ofreflective particles that are different from the goniochromatic coloringagent and selected from the group consisting of: particles with anatural or synthetic substrate, coated at least partially with at leastone layer of at least one metal, particles with a synthetic substratecoated at least partially with at least one layer of at least onemetallic compound and especially a metal oxide, particles formed from astack of at least two layers with different refractive indices,especially two layers of polymers, and metal oxide particles.

According to another of its aspects, the present invention also relatesto a makeup kit for a support chosen from the skin, the lips and theinteguments, comprising a first and a second cosmetic composition thatare different from each other. The first composition comprises at leastsome reflective particles selected from the group consisting of:particles comprising a natural or synthetic substrate, coated at leastpartially with a layer of at least one metal, particles with a syntheticsubstrate coated at least partially with at least one layer of ametallic compound and especially a metal oxide, particles formed from astack of at least two layers with different refractive indices,especially two layers of polymers, and metal oxide particles. The secondcomposition comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at leastone goniochromatic coloring agent. The first and second compositions arepackaged separately.

Another embodiment of the invention is a makeup kit for a support chosenfrom the skin, the lips and the integuments, comprising a first and asecond composition that are different from each other, the firstcomposition comprising at least some reflective particles and a secondcomposition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at leastone goniochromatic coloring agent, the first and second compositionsbeing packaged separately, the reflective particles being capable ofcreating highlight points that are visible to the naked eye, afterapplying the two compositions to the support.

The characteristics described above, especially regarding the meangloss, are also valid for either the first or the second composition andfor the layer resulting from the application of the first and secondcompositions.

Examples of Reflective Particles:

The reflective particles used must be compatible with cosmetic use andmust be able to remain in the physiologically acceptable medium, and inparticular must not dissolve therein, or in any case must not completelydissolve therein.

The reflective particles may be present in the composition inhomogeneously dispersed form, for example in a content ranging from 0.1%to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from1% to 15% by weight and better still from 1% to 10% by weight, forexample about 2%, especially for a composition intended to be applied tothe lips. The content of reflective particles may depend, inter alia, onthe nature of the support intended to receive the cosmetic composition,and also on the nature of the physiologically acceptable medium and ofthe goniochromatic coloring agent(s) and on the nature and size of thereflective particles. The content of reflective particles willpreferably be chosen such that the highlight points are discretelydistributed over the colored goniochromatic surface. The reflectiveparticles may be in an amount that is sufficient to be able to observesimultaneously, when the cosmetic composition is applied to a supportsuch as the lips, for example, a plurality of highlight points, forexample more than about ten, or even more than about fifty, or evenmore, for example more than one hundred or several hundred.

According to one particular embodiment, the reflective particles may beintroduced such that the reflective particles/goniochromatic pigmentsweight ratio ranges from 0.3 to 3 and in particular from 0.5 to 2.5. Inpoint of fact, this ratio can vary as a function of the nature of thecosmetic composition in which the said particles are incorporated. Forexample, in a formulation of nail varnish type, this reflectiveparticles/goniochromatic pigments weight ratio may be greater than 1, inparticular greater than 1.5 and especially greater than or equal to 2.On the other hand, in formulations of liquid lipstick type or in theform of tubes, this weight ratio may be less than or equal to 2 andespecially less than or equal to 1.5.

The reflective particles may be goniochromatic or non-goniochromaticparticles, and interference or non-interference particles, but arepreferably non-goniochromatic particles.

Their size is compatible with the manifestation of a specular reflectionof visible light (400-700 nm) of sufficient intensity, taking intoaccount the mean gloss of the composition, to create a highlight point.This size can vary depending on the chemical nature of the particles,their shape and their power of specular reflection of visible light.

Among the reflective particles that may be used in the invention, somemay have a relative difference Δ, defined by the formula Δ[L*_(SCI)−L*_(SCE)]/L*_(SCE), of greater than or equal to 0.25. Forcomparative purposes, some nacres that are unsuitable as reflectiveparticles have a coefficient Δ of less than 0.25. In the above formula,L*_(SCI) denotes the lightness L* measured using a Minolta brandspectrocolorimeter of reference CM-2002, in “specular componentincluded” mode, and L*_(SCE) denotes the lightness L* measured using thesame machine, in “specular component excluded” mode. To perform themeasurements, a dispersion containing 5% by weight of the test particlesin a transparent nail varnish of standard composition (essentiallynitrocellulose, a resin and a plasticizer) is prepared and a coat 300 μmthick of the composition thus formed is spread in fluid form onto theblack background of a contrast card.

The SCI/SCE function of the spectrocolorimeter is used with the geometryd/8 to measure L*_(SCI) and L*_(SCE).

By way of example, for reflective particles of Reflecks® brand, sold byEngelhard, comprising a glass substrate coated with brown iron oxide, arelative difference Δ of greater than 0.7 was measured, whereas forFlamenco® nacres sold by the same company, a relative difference of lessthan 0.2 was measured.

The reflective particles will preferably have a size of at least 10 μm,for example between about 20 μm and about 50 μm.

The term “size” denotes the size given by the statistical particle sizedistribution to half the population, known as the D50. The size of thereflective particles may depend on their surface state. The morereflective their surface state, the smaller may be the size, inprinciple, and vice versa.

Out of concern for aesthetics, it is preferable, except when they shineto create highlight points, for the reflective particles not to beperceptible at all or not readily perceptible to the naked eye at thesurface of the composition applied to its support. It is also desirablefor the reflective particles not to have sizes such that they give riseto a sensation of discomfort on the support. The use of particles lessthan or equal to 250 μm and better still less than or equal to 150 μmand for example less than 100 μm in size is thus preferred. The size ofthe particles may also depend on the nature of the support to which thecomposition is intended to be applied; certain parts of the body or theface may, for example, tolerate larger sizes better than others withoutgiving rise to discomfort.

The reflective particles may be in varied forms. These particles mayespecially be in the form of platelets or globular, in particularspherical.

The term “platelet form” denotes particles for which the ratio of thelongest size to the thickness is greater than or equal to 5, or even 10,or better still 20. The thickness of the particles in platelet form is,for example, between about 0.5 μm and about 5 μm.

Particles with a substantially flat outer surface are most particularlysuitable, since they can give rise more readily, if their size,structure and surface state allow it, to an intense specular reflection.This is referred to as a mirror effect.

For such particles in particular, it is essentially the light returnedby reflection in a direction forming, with the normal to the reflectivesurface, the same angle as that formed by the incident light with thisnormal, which allows these particles to appear as highlight points,rather than the light scattered in the other directions.

It may be desirable for the reflective particles to be non-scatteringand non-matt.

It may also be desirable for the reflective particles not tosubstantially adversely effect the coloration of the cosmeticcomposition.

In this regard, reflective particles that allow a metallic reflection ofthe incident light are most particularly suitable. This is the caseespecially when the reflective particles allow, irrespective of theirshape, a reflection on a layer of a metal, for example of silver. Suchparticles are found to be relatively neutral with respect to the colorof the composition.

Reflective particles that may be used in the invention, with a metallicor white glint, may, for example, reflect the light in all thecomponents of the visible range without significantly absorbing one ormore wavelengths. The spectral reflectance of these reflective particlesmay, for example, be greater than 70%, and better still at least 80%, oreven 90% or 95%, in the 400-700 nm range.

The light reflected by the reflective particles may be non-iridescent,especially in the case of a metallic glint.

Whatever their shape, the reflective particles may or may not have amultilayer structure, and, in the case of a multilayer structure, forexample at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially of areflective material.

When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, theymay be composed, for example, of metal oxides, for example titaniumoxide or iron oxide, obtained synthetically so as to have asubstantially flat surface having, for example, a non-matt andnon-scattering surface state, allowing a specular reflection of lightthat is sufficient to obtain highlight points within the cosmeticcomposition.

When the reflective particles do have a multilayer structure, theseparticles may comprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate,especially a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at leastone layer of a reflective material.

Whatever the shape of the reflective particles, the substrate may, whenit is synthetic, be prepared with a shape that promotes the formation ofa reflective surface after coating, especially after depositing a layerof reflective material. The substrate may, for example, have a flatsurface and the layer of reflective material a substantially uniformthickness.

The substrate may be made of one or more materials, and solid or hollow.The substrate may be organic or mineral. The substrate may be natural,but a synthetic substrate is preferably used, for the reason indicatedabove.

The substrate may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metaloxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, especially aluminosilicates andborosilicates and synthetic mica, this list not being limiting.

The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or of a metalliccompound.

The layer of metal or of metallic compound may or may not totally coatthe substrate, and the layer of metal may be at least partially coatedwith a layer of another material, for example a transparent material. Itmay be preferable for the layer of metal or of metallic compound tototally coat the substrate, directly or indirectly, i.e., with insertionof at least one intermediate metallic or non-metallic layer.

The metal may be chosen, for example, from Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg,Cr, Mo, Ti, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and alloys thereof. Ag, Au,Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, Cu and alloys thereof (for example bronzes andbrasses) are preferred metals.

In the case especially of particles with a substrate coated with silveror gold, the metallic layer may be present in a content representing,for example, from 0.1% to 50% or even between 1% and 20% of the totalweight of the particles.

Particles of glass coated with a metallic layer may have a size ranging,for example, from 10 μm to 300 μm and better still from 25 μm to 150 μm.In the case where these particles are in the form of platelets, thethickness may be, for example, between about 0.1 μm and about 25 μm,preferably from about 0.5 μm to about 10 μm and better still from about0.5 μm to about 5 μm. In the case where these particles are in the formof spheres, they may have a size ranging, for example, from about 10 to100 μm.

Particles of glass coated with a metallic layer are described especiallyin JP-A-09-188,830, JP-A-10-158,450, JP-A-10-158,541, JP-A-07-258,460and JP-A-05-017,710.

Again as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineralsubstrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made ofparticles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver, alsoknown as “white nacres”.

Particles with a glass substrate coated with silver, in the form ofplatelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS byToyal. Particles with a glass substrate coated withnickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name Crystal Star GF550 and GF 2525 by this same company.

Irrespective of their shape, the reflective particles may also be chosenfrom particles with a synthetic substrate coated at least partially withat least one layer of at least one metallic compound, especially a metaloxide, chosen, for example, from titanium oxides, especially TiO₂, ironoxides, especially Fe₂O₃, tin oxide, chromium oxide, barium sulfate andthe following compounds: MgF₂, CrF₃, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO₂, Al₂O₃, MgO, Y₂O₃,SeO₃, SiO, HfO₂, ZrO₂, CeO₂, Nb₂O₅, Ta₂O₅, MoS₂ and mixtures or alloysthereof.

Examples of such particles that may be mentioned include particlescomprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, orparticles of glass coated either with brown iron oxide or with titaniumoxide, tin oxide or a mixture thereof, for instance those sold under thebrand name Reflecks® by Engelhard.

Pigments of the Metashine 1080R range sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co.Ltd., are also suitable for the invention. These pigments, describedmore particularly in patent application JP 2001-11340, are flakes ofC-Glass comprising 65% to 72% SiO₂, coated with a layer of titaniumoxide of rutile type (TiO₂). These glass flakes have a mean thickness of1 micron and a mean size of 80 microns, i.e., a mean size/mean thicknessratio of 80. They have blue, green, yellow or silvery glints dependingon the thickness of the TiO₂ layer.

Mention may also be made of particles of between 80 and 100 μm in size,comprising a synthetic mica substrate (fluorophlogopite) coated withtitanium dioxide representing 12% of the total weight of the particle,sold under the name Prominence by Nihon Koken.

The reflective particles may also be chosen from particles formed by astack of at least two layers with different refractive indices.

These layers may be of polymeric or metallic nature and may especiallyinclude at least one polymer layer.

Thus, the reflective particles may be particles derived from amultilayer polymer film.

Such particles are described especially in WO 99/36477, U.S. Pat. Nos.6,299,979 and 6,387,498.

As illustrations of the materials that can constitute the various layersof the multilayer structure, it is possible to mention, this list notbeing limiting: polyethylene naphthalate (PEN) and its isomers, forexample 2,6-, 1,4-, 1,5-, 2,7- and 2,3-PEN, polyalkylene terephthalates,polyimides, polyetherimides, atactic polystyrenes, polycarbonates,polyalkyl methacrylates and polyalkyl acrylates, syndiotacticpolystyrene (sPS), syndiotactic poly-alpha-methylstyrenes, syndiotacticpolydichlorostyrene, copolymers and blends of these polystyrenes,cellulose derivatives, polyalkylene polymers, fluoropolymers,chloropolymers, polysulfones, polyethersulfones, polyacrylonitriles,polyamides, silicone resins, epoxy resins, polyvinyl acetate,polyetheramides, ionomeric resins, elastomers and polyurethanes.Copolymers are also suitable, for example copolymers of PEN (for examplecopolymers of 2,6-, 1,4-, 1,5-, 2,7-, and/or 2,3-naphthalenedicarboxylicacid or the esters thereof with (a) terephthalic acid or its esters; (b)isophthalic acid or its esters; (c) phthalic acid or its esters; (d)alkane glycols; (e) cycloalkane glycols (for examplecyclohexanedimethanol diol); (f) alkanedicarboxylic acids; and/or (g)cycloalkanedicarboxylic acids, polyalkylene terephthalate copolymers andstyrene copolymers. In addition, each individual layer may includeblends of two or more of the above polymers or copolymers.

The choice of materials intended to constitute the various layers of themultilayer structure is, of course, made so as to give the particlesthus formed the desired reflective appearance.

Reflective particles comprising a stack of at least two layers ofpolymers are sold by 3M under the name Mirror Glitter. These particlescomprise layers of 2,6-PEN and of polymethyl methacrylate in an 80/20mass ratio. Such particles are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,825,643.

The gloss of the reflective particles may also be due, as a variant oradditionally, to the reflection of light on a layer of a material of theparticle that has a sufficiently large refractive index relative to thatof the medium from which the incident light originates.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may, of course,comprise reflective particles of different nature without departing fromthe scope of the present invention.

Examples of Goniochromatic Coloring Agents:

The composition contains one or more goniochromatic coloring agents tocreate, when the composition is applied to its support, a coloredbackground whose color changes with the angle of observation and withwhich the reflective particles contrast. A single goniochromaticcoloring agent may be used for ease of implementation.

The goniochromatic coloring agent may be present, for example, in anamount that may range, on a weight basis relative to the total weight ofthe composition, from 0.1% to 20% or from 2% to 15% and better stillfrom 2% to 10%, especially for a composition intended to be applied tothe lips. In the case of such a composition, very satisfactory resultshave been obtained for a content of goniochromatic coloring agent ofbetween 2% and 8% combined with a content of reflective particles ofbetween 1% and 5% by weight. A nail varnish composition may contain, forexample, from 0.1% to 5% of goniochromatic coloring agent; a foundationmay contain from 10% to 15% thereof and a lipstick may contain from 2%to 8% thereof by weight.

The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen so as to present arelatively large color change with the angle of observation.

The goniochromatic coloring agent may thus be chosen such that a colordifference ΔE of the cosmetic composition, measured in the CIE 1976colorimetric space, of at least 2 may be observed for a variation of theangle of observation of between 0° and 80° under illumination at 45°.

The goniochromatic coloring agent may also be chosen such that avariation Dh of the hue angle of the cosmetic composition, in the CIE1976 plane, of at least 30° or even at least 40° or at least 60°, oreven at least 100°, may be observed for an illumination at 45° and avariation of the angle of observation of between 0° and 80°.

The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, frommultilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal coloring agents.

In the case of a multilayer structure, it may comprise, for example, atleast two layers, each layer, which may or may not be independent of theother layer(s), being made, for example, from at least one materialchosen from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF₂, CeF₃,ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO₂, Ge, Te, Fe₂O₃, Pt, Va, Al₂O₃, MgO, Y₂O₃, S₂O₃, SiO,HfO₂, ZrO₂, CeO₂, Nb₂O₅, Ta₂O₅, TiO₂, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn,MoS₂, cryolite, and alloys, polymers and combinations thereof.

The multilayer structure may or may not have, relative to a centrallayer, symmetry in the chemical nature of the stacked layers.

Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may beused in the compositions prepared in accordance with the invention are,for example, the following structures: Al/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Al, pigmentshaving this structure being sold by Dupont de Nemours;Cr/MgF₂/Al/MgF₂/Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under thename Chromaflair by Flex; MoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃, and Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃, pigmentshaving these structures being sold under the name Sicopearl by BASF;MoS₂/SiO₂/mica-oxide/SiO₂/MoS₂, Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/mica-oxide/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃;TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂, TiO₂/Al₂O₃/TiO₂, SnO/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/SnO,Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃, SnO/Mica/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/Mica/SnO, pigments havingthese structures being sold under the name Xirona by Merck (Darmstadt).For example these pigments can be the pigments of silica/titaniumoxide/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by Merck,pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the name XironaIndian Summer by Merck, and pigments of silica/titanium oxide/mica/tinoxide structure sold under the name Xirona Carribean Blue by Merck.Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from thecompany Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and the nature of thevarious layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with theFe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃ structure, the color changes from green-goldento red-grey for SiO₂ layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden forSiO₂ layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO₂ layers of410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO₂ layers of 430 to 440 nm.

Goniochromatic coloring agents with a multilayer structure comprising analternation of polymer layers, for example of the type such aspolyethylene naphthalate and polyethylene terephthalate, may also beused. Such agents are described especially in WO-A-96/19347 andWO-A-99/36478.

Examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure that may bementioned include those sold by 3M under the name Color Glitter.

The liquid-crystal coloring agents comprise, for example, silicones orcellulose ethers onto which are grafted mesomorphic groups. Examples ofliquid-crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include, forexample, those sold by Chemx and also the products sold under the nameHelicone® HC by Wacker.

The composition may also comprise dispersed goniochromatic fibers. Suchfibers may, for example, have a size of between 200 μm and 700 μm, forexample about 300 μm.

Interference fibers with a multilayer structure may be used inparticular. Fibers with a multilayer structure of polymers are describedespecially in EP-A-921,217, EP-A-686,858 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,472,798.The multilayer structure may comprise at least two layers, each layer,which may or may not be independent of the other layer(s), being made ofat least one synthetic polymer. The polymers present in the fibers mayhave a refractive index ranging from 1.30 to 1.82 and better stillranging from 1.35 to 1.75. The polymers that are preferred for makingthe fibers are polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate,polyethylene naphthalate, polycarbonate; acrylic polymers such aspolymethyl methacrylate; polyamides.

Goniochromatic fibers with a polyethylene terephthalate/nylon-6two-layer structure are sold by Teijin under the name Morphotex.

Gloss Base:

The composition may also comprise at least one compound capable ofgiving it gloss, and especially an oily phase, in particular an oilyphase with a refractive index of between 1.47 and 1.51 and better stillbetween 1.48 and 1.50. The refractive index is measured at roomtemperature (25° C.) using a refractometer.

Such an oily phase may prove to be useful especially in the case of aliquid gloss.

According to one implementation example of the invention, the gloss baseselected is one as described in EP-A-792,637, the content of which isincorporated by reference into the present patent application.

The cosmetic composition may contain, for example, at least onecarbon-based oil, hydrocarbon-based oil, fluorooil and/or silicone oilof mineral, plant or synthetic origin.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means oils mainly containing carbonatoms and hydrogen atoms and in particular alkyl or alkenyl chains, forinstance alkanes or alkenes, but also oils with an alkyl or alkenylchain comprising one or more alcohol, ether, ester and/or carboxylicacid groups.

As oils that may be used, mention may thus be made, this list not beinglimiting, of hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin suchas linear or branched hydrocarbons, for instance liquid paraffin and itsderivatives, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenatedpolyisobutene such as Parleam sold by Nippon Oil Fats, squalane ofsynthetic or plant origin; oils of animal origin, such as mink oil,turtle oil or perhydrosqualene; hydro-carbon-based oils of plant originwith a high triglyceride content consisting of fatty acid esters ofglycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths, saidchains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated,for instance sweet almond oil, beauty-leaf oil, palm oil, grapeseed oil,sesame oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil,apricot oil, castor oil, alfalfa oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil,macadamia oil, musk rose oil, hazelnut oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil,olive oil or cereal germ oil (from corn, wheat, barley or rye); fattyacid esters and especially esters of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, oflauric acid or of stearic acid; synthetic esters such as, for example,purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C₁₂ to C₁₅alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octanoates, decanoates orricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate,isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate,2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate,2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diiso-stearylmalate, or glyceryl or diglyceryl triiso-stearate; hydroxylated esters,for instance isostearyl lactate; pentaerythritol esters; C₈-C₂₆ higherfatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid orisostearic acid; C₈-C₂₆ higher fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol,linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol oroctyldodecanol; synthetic esters containing at least 7 carbon atoms,silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid atroom temperature, linear, and optionally phenylated, such asphenyltrimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydi-phenylsiloxanes,diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes, liquid2-phenylethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicates, optionally substituted withaliphatic and/or aromatic groups, for instance alkyl, alkoxy or phenylgroups that are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, thesegroups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms and being optionallyfluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/oramine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, with fattyalcohols or with polyoxyalkylenes, for instance dimethicone copolyols oralkylmethicone copolyols; liquid fluorosilicones; or caprylic/capricacid triglycerides, for instance those sold by Stearineries Dubois orthose sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel;and mixtures thereof.

Good dispersion of the pigments and/or fillers in the cosmeticcomposition may also improve the gloss of the layer of compositionapplied to its support.

In the case of a nail varnish, the gloss may be obtained by introducingcompounds of polyurethane and latex type, for example, into the varnishcomposition.

Non-Goniochromatic Coloring Agents:

The cosmetic composition may incorporate one or more non-goniochromaticcoloring agents not consisting of reflective particles, chosen, forexample, from dyes, especially liposoluble or water-soluble dyes,monochromatic pigments and nacres conventionally used in cosmeticcompositions.

As dyes that may be used, examples that may be mentioned include Sudanred, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DCYellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto,carotenoide derivatives, for instance lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin andcapsanthin, and/or mixtures thereof, these dyes being liposoluble.Water-soluble dyes, for instance copper sulfate, iron sulfate,water-soluble sulfopolyesters such as those described in FR-96,154,152,rhodamines, natural dyes (carotene, beetroot juice), methylene blue andcaramel, may also be used.

The dyes may represent, for example, from 0.01% to 20% and better stillfrom 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

As pigments that may be used, mention may be made of pigments consistingof white or colored particles, intended, for example, to color and/oropacify the composition. Among the pigments that may be used, mentionmay be made of carbon black, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminumlakes, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, ironoxide or chromium oxide and ferric blue.

Nacres may be present in the composition in a proportion, for example,of from 0 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, or even in acontent of about from 1% to 15%. Examples of nacres that may bementioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with ironoxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among thecommercially available nacres that may be mentioned are the nacresTimica and Flamenco sold by Engelhard and the Timiron nacres sold byMerck.

The non-goniochromatic coloring agents may represent, for example, from0.001% to 60%, preferably from 0.01% to 50% and better still from 0.1%to 40% of the total weight of the composition. For pulverulentcompositions, the amount of coloring agents may be up to 85% and even upto 98%.

Physiologically Acceptable Medium:

The physiologically acceptable medium will be adapted to the nature ofthe support to which the composition is to be applied, and also to theform in which the composition is intended to be packaged, especiallysolid or fluid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueouscosmetic medium and/or a fatty phase.

The composition may comprise water or a mixture of water and hydrophilicorganic solvents, for instance alcohols and especially linear orbranched lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, forinstance ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, polyols, for instanceglycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentylene glycol andpolyethylene glycols. The hydrophilic phase may also contain hydrophilicC₂ ethers and C₂-C₄ aldehydes. The water or the mixture of water and ofhydrophilic organic solvents may be present in the composition accordingto the invention, or one of the base and/or surface compositions, in acontent ranging from 0% to 90% (especially 0.1% to 90%) by weight andpreferably from 0% to 60% by weight (especially 0.1% to 60% by weight),relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise a fatty phase consisting especially offatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (in general 25° C.)and/or fatty substances that are solid at room temperature, such aswaxes, pasty fatty substances and gums, and mixtures thereof. This fattyphase may also contain lipophilic organic solvents.

As fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature, often known asoils, which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acidscontaining from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoicacid triglyceride, or alternatively sunflower oil, corn oil, soybeanoil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castoroil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil andkarite butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or syntheticorigin such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleumjelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam;synthetic esters and synthetic ethers, especially of fatty acids, suchas, for example, purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexylpalmitate, 2-octyl-dodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate andisostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyllactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate,diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alkyl heptanoates,octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycoldioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycoldiisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols containingfrom 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol,2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol; partiallyhydrocarbon-based or silicone-based fluoro oils; silicone oils, forinstance linear or cyclic, volatile or non-volatilepolydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid or pasty at roomtemperature, for instance cyclomethicones, dimethicones, optionallycomprising a phenyl group, for instance phenyl trimethicones,phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxanes,diphenylmethyldimethyl-trisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, phenyldimethicones and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; mixtures thereof.

These oils may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 90% andbetter still from 0.1% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

The composition of the invention may also advantageously comprise afatty substance that is solid or pasty at room temperature, for instancegums or waxes. The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluoro waxesand/or silicone waxes and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/orsynthetic origin. In particular, the waxes may have a melting point ofgreater than 25° C. and preferably greater than 45° C.

As waxes that may be used in the composition of the invention, mentionmay be made of beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin,microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes, forinstance polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes, or silicone waxes,for instance alkyl dimethicones or alkoxy dimethicones containing from16 to 45 carbon atoms.

The gums are generally polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) of high molecularweight or cellulose gums or polysaccharides and the pasty substances aregenerally hydrocarbon-based compounds, for instance lanolins andderivatives thereof, or PDMSs.

The nature and amount of the solid substances depend on the desiredmechanical properties and textures. As a guide, the composition maycontain from 0% to 50% by weight and better still from 1% to 30% byweight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or morephysiologically acceptable organic solvents. These solvents may bepresent in a content ranging from 0% to 90%, better still from 0% to 60%and even better still from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

The presence of organic solvents is more particularly suitable formaking up the nails. The composition then generally constitutes a nailvarnish. The organic solvent may be present in the cosmetic compositionin a content ranging, for example, from 30% to 99% by weight andpreferably from 60% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

When the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition contains aliquid phase, this phase may especially be a liquid organic phase inwhich water is dispersed or emulsified.

The composition may have a continuous fatty phase, which may containless than 5% water, especially less than 1% water, relative to its totalweight, and in particular may be in anhydrous form.

Fillers:

The cosmetic composition may also comprise fillers. The term “fillers”denotes particles of any form that are insoluble in the medium of thecomposition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition ismanufactured. These fillers especially serve to modify the rheology ortexture of the composition.

Examples of fillers that may be mentioned, inter alia, are talc, mica,silica, kaolin and polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem).

Cosmetic Active Agents:

The cosmetic composition may also contain one or more cosmetic,dermatological, hygiene or pharmaceutical active agents.

As cosmetic, dermatological, hygiene or pharmaceutical active agentsthat may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may bemade of moisturizers (polyols, for instance glycerol), vitamins (C, A,E, F, B, or PP) essential fatty acids, essential oils, ceramides,sphingolipids, liposoluble sunscreens or sunscreens in the form ofnanoparticles, and specific active agents for treating the skin(protective agents, antibacterial agents, anti-wrinkle agents, etc.).These active agents may be used, for example, in concentrations of from0% to 20% and especially from 0.001% to 15% relative to the total weightof the composition.

The cosmetic composition may also contain ingredients commonly used incosmetics, for instance thickeners, surfactants, trace elements,moisturizers, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, acidifying orbasifying agents, preservatives, antioxidants and UV-screening agents,or mixtures thereof.

Depending on the type of application envisaged, the cosmetic compositionmay furthermore comprise constituents conventionally used in the fieldsunder consideration, which are present in an amount that is suitable forthe desired presentation form.

The cosmetic composition may be in any presentation form normally usedfor topical application, and especially in anhydrous form or in the formof an oily or aqueous solution, an oily or aqueous gel, an oil-in-wateror water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion or a dispersion of oil inwater by means of vesicles located at the oil/water interface.

The composition of the invention may be in powder, liquid, solid orsemi-solid form, especially in the form of a product cast as a stick ora dish, or in the form of a tube, a paste or a more or less fluid cream.

The cosmetic composition may constitute, inter alia, a lipstick, aliquid gloss, a lipstick paste, a makeup rouge, a lip pencil, a solid orfluid foundation, a concealer product, a product for the contour of theeyes, an eyeliner, a mascara, a nail varnish, an eyeshadow, a makeupproduct for the body or the hair or an antisun product or skin-coloringproduct.

The composition of the invention may be obtained according to thepreparation processes conventionally used in cosmetics.

In order to further illustrate the present invention and the advantagesthereof, the following specific examples are given, it being understoodthat same are intended only as illustrative and in nowise limitative.

EXAMPLES

The percentages below are all expressed on a weight basis relative tothe total weight of the composition.

The invention applies most particularly to compositions intended to beapplied to the lips.

To check the optical properties of a composition prepared in accordancewith the invention, a liquid gloss having the composition below wasprepared.

Liquid Gloss:

Poly(bis(diglyceryl) 2-acryladipate) 17.5 Diisostearyl malate 9.5Tridecyl trimellitate 10 C₁₈-C₃₆ acid triglyceride 19 Dimethyl silylatesilica 8 Silver-coated glass particles (Metashine ®)* 2 Goniochromaticpigment (Sicopearl ®)** 5 Nacre 3 Polybutene 12 Pentaerythrityltetraisostearate 13 Fragrance, preservatives qs *sold by Toyal **sold byBASF

After application, it is found that the composition makes the lips“fuller”. FIG. 2 is a photograph of made-up lips. The presence ofnumerous highlight points and the high mean gloss of the composition maybe noted in the photograph.

A semi-solid lipstick was also prepared.

Lipstick in Tube Form:

Octyldodecyl neopentanoate 17.0 Capric/caprylic acid triglyceride 10.2Lanolin oil 15.0 Acetylated lanolin 10.2 Polybutene 15.0 Silver-coatedglass particles (Metashine ® REFSX) 4.0 Goniochromatic pigment(Sicopearl ® 3.0 Microcrystalline wax 2.5 Polyethylene wax 7.4Phenyltrimethicone 7.0 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 6.5 Fragrance,preservative, antioxidant qs

Procedure: The betone is dispersed in some of the oily phase, the restof the fatty phase is then added and the mixture is heated to 95° C.After homogenization and grinding of the pigments, the mixture is castin suitable moulds.

Tubes of lipstick are obtained, which give an impression of volume afterapplication to the lips. The composition also has good applicationproperties. The invention is not limited to compositions intended to beapplied to the lips, and other examples of compositions will be given byway of illustration.

Nail Varnish:

A nail varnish having the composition below was prepared:

Nitrocellulose 10 Plasticizers and resin 15 Rheological agent 1.5Silver-coated glass particles (Metashine ® REFSX) 5 Goniochromaticpigment (Sicopearl ®) 2 Ethyl acetate, butyl acetate qs 100

The composition is applied to the nails. A pink makeup result with“metallic” gloss points is obtained.

Eyeshadow:

Silver-coated glass particles (Metashine ® REFSX) 5 Goniochromaticpigment (Sicopearl ®) 10 Silica 1.5 Triethanolamine 1 Carbomer 0.5Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1 Butylene glycol 2 Glycerol 5 Preservatives qsWater qs 100

Once applied to the eyelids, the composition produces a colored makeupresult with “metallic” gloss points.

Needless to say, the invention is not limited to the implementationexamples that have just been described.

It is especially possible to prepare, in accordance with the invention,a composition comprising goniochromatic coloring agents of differentnature and also reflective particles of different nature.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression“comprising a” should be understood as being synonymous with “comprisingat least one”, unless otherwise specified.

Each patent, patent application, publication and literaturearticle/report cited or indicated herein is hereby expresslyincorporated by reference. While the invention has been described interms of various specific and preferred embodiments, the skilled artisanwill appreciate that various modifications, substitutions, omissions,and changes may be made without departing from the spirit thereof.Accordingly, it is intended that the scope of the present invention belimited solely by the scope of the following claims, includingequivalents thereof.

What is claimed is:
 1. A goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeupcomposition, comprising: (a) at least one goniochromatic coloring agent,wherein said at least one goniochromatic coloring agent is such that avariation Dh of the hue angle thereof of at least 30° is observed on alayer of such cosmetic makeup composition, for an illumination at 45°and a variation of the angle of observation of between 0° and 80°, andwherein said at least one goniochromatic coloring agent is present in anamount ranging from 0.1% to 20% of the total weight of the composition;and (b) an amount of light reflective particles different from said atleast one goniochromatic coloring agent, wherein the light reflectiveparticles are particles of a synthetic substrate made from glasses, thelight reflective particles are at least partially coated with at leastone layer of at least one metal or metal oxide, said light reflectiveparticles not being greater than 250 μm in size, and being present inthe composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition, formulated into (c) a topicallyapplicable, physiologically acceptable medium therefor, said compositionhaving a mean gloss greater than or equal to 30 and creating an opticalvolumizing effect once applied to a support or a substrate.
 2. Thecosmetic makeup composition as defined by claim 1, said at least onemetal oxide being selected from the group consisting of titanium oxides,iron oxides, tin oxide, chromium oxide, SiO₂, Al₂O₃, MgO, Y₂O₃, SeO₃,SiO, HfO₂, ZrO₂, CeO₂, Nb₂O₅, Ta₂O₅ and mixtures thereof.
 3. Thecosmetic makeup composition as defined by claim 2, said at least onemetal oxide being selected from the group consisting of titanium oxide,iron oxide, tin oxide and mixtures thereof.
 4. The cosmetic makeupcomposition as defined by claim 3, said at least one metal oxide beingTiO₂.
 5. The cosmetic makeup composition as defined by claim 1, said atleast one metal comprising Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, or mixture oralloy thereof.
 6. The cosmetic makeup composition as defined by claim 5,said at least one metal comprising Ag or alloy thereof.
 7. The cosmeticmakeup composition as defined by claim 1, having a mean gloss greaterthan or equal to
 50. 8. The cosmetic makeup composition as defined byclaim 7, having a mean gloss greater than or equal to
 70. 9. Thecosmetic makeup composition as defined by claim 1, wherein said at leastone goniochromatic coloring agent is such that a variation Dh of the hueangle thereof of at least 60° is observed on a layer of such cosmeticmakeup composition for an illumination at 45° and a variation of theangle of observation of between 0° and 80°.
 10. The cosmetic makeupcomposition as defined by claim 1, said reflective particles being lessthan 150 μm in size.
 11. The cosmetic makeup composition as defined byclaim 10, said reflective particles being less than 100 μm in size. 12.The cosmetic makeup composition as defined by claim 11, said reflectiveparticles being at least 10 μm in size.
 13. The cosmetic makeupcomposition as defined by claim 1, said reflective particles rangingfrom 20 μm to 50 μm in size.
 14. The cosmetic makeup composition asdefined by claim 1, said reflective particles being present in thecomposition in an amount ranging from 1% to 15% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition.
 15. The cosmetic makeup compositionas defined by claim 14, said reflective particles being present in thecomposition in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition.
 16. The cosmetic makeup compositionas defined by claim 1, said reflective particles being in the form ofplatelets or spheres.
 17. The cosmetic makeup composition as defined byclaim 1, said at least one goniochromatic coloring agent comprising aliquid-crystal coloring agent or a multilayer interference structure.18. The cosmetic makeup composition as defined by claim 1, said at leastone goniochromatic coloring agent comprising a multilayer interferencestructure selected from the group of structures consisting ofAl/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Al; Cr/MgF₂/Al/MgF₂/Cr; MoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃;MOS₂/SiO₂/mica-oxide/SiO₂/MOS₂; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/mica-oxide/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃,TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂; TiO₂/Al₂O₃/TiO₂, SnO/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/SnO,Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃ and SnO/Mica/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/Mica/SnO.
 19. The cosmeticmakeup composition as defined by claim 18, said at least onegoniochromatic coloring agent comprising a multilayer interferencestructure selected from the group of structures consisting ofMoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃ andFe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; SnO/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/SnO, Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃and SnO/Mica/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/Mica/SnO.
 20. The cosmetic makeupcomposition as defined by claim 1, said at least one goniochromaticcoloring agent being present in an amount ranging from 2% to 15% of thetotal weight of the composition.
 21. The cosmetic makeup composition asdefined by claim 20, said at least one goniochromatic coloring agentbeing present in an amount ranging from 2% to 10% of the total weight ofthe composition.
 22. The cosmetic makeup composition as defined by claim1, comprising a gloss base having a mean gloss of greater than
 20. 23.The cosmetic makeup composition as defined by claim 22, comprising agloss base having a mean gloss of greater than
 50. 24. The cosmeticmakeup composition as defined by claim 23, comprising a gloss basehaving a mean gloss of greater than
 70. 25. The cosmetic makeupcomposition as defined by claim 1, comprising an oily phase having arefractive index of between 1.47 and 1.51.
 26. The cosmetic makeupcomposition as defined by claim 1, further comprising at least onenon-goniochromatic coloring agent.
 27. The cosmetic makeup compositionas defined by claim 26, said at least one non-goniochromatic coloringagent being selected from the group consisting of dyes, monochromaticpigments and nacres.
 28. The cosmetic makeup composition as defined byclaim 1, comprising goniochromatic fibers.
 29. The cosmetic makeupcomposition as defined by claim 1, formulated in anhydrous form, in theform of an oily or aqueous solution, an oily or aqueous gel, anoil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a dispersionof oil in water by means of vesicles located at the oil/water interface.30. A liquid gloss comprising the cosmetic makeup composition as definedby claim
 1. 31. A lip makeup comprising the cosmetic makeup compositionas defined by claim
 1. 32. A nail varnish comprising the cosmetic makeupcomposition as defined by claim
 1. 33. A foundation comprising thecosmetic makeup composition as defined by claim
 1. 34. A mascaracomprising the cosmetic makeup composition as defined by claim
 1. 35. Amethod of using a goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeupcomposition, the composition comprising: (a) at least one goniochromaticcoloring agent, wherein said at least one goniochromatic coloring agentis such that a variation Dh of the hue angle thereof of at least 30° isobserved on a layer of such cosmetic makeup composition, for anillumination at 45° and a variation of the angle of observation ofbetween 0° and 80°, and wherein said at least one goniochromaticcoloring agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% of thetotal weight of the composition; and (b) an amount of light reflectiveparticles different from said at least one goniochromatic coloringagent, wherein the light reflective particles are particles of asynthetic substrate made from glasses and the light reflective particlesare at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least onemetal or metal oxide, said light reflective particles not being greaterthan 250 μm in size, and being present in the composition in an amountranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition, formulated into (c) a topically applicable, physiologicallyacceptable medium therefor, said composition having a mean gloss greaterthan or equal to 30, the method comprising: applying saidgoniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition to a supportor a substrate creating an optical volumizing effect once applied to thesupport or substrate.
 36. The method of using the goniochromatic/lightreflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 35, wherein said atleast one metal oxide is selected from the group consisting of titaniumoxides, iron oxides, tin oxide, chromium oxide, SiO₂, Al₂O₃, MgO, Y₂O₃,SeO₃, SiO, HfO₂, ZrO₂, CeO₂, Nb₂O₅, Ta₂O₅, and mixtures thereof.
 37. Themethod of using the goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeupcomposition of claim 36, wherein said at least one metal oxide isselected from the group consisting of titanium oxide, iron oxide, tinoxide and mixtures thereof.
 38. The method of using thegoniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 37,wherein said at least one metal oxide is TiO₂.
 39. The method of usingthe goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim35, said at least one metal comprising Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr ormixture or alloy thereof.
 40. The method of using thegoniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 39,said at least one metal comprising Ag or alloy thereof.
 41. The methodof using the goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup compositionof claim 35, wherein said cosmetic makeup composition has a mean glossgreater than or equal to
 50. 42. The method of using thegoniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 41,wherein said cosmetic makeup composition has a mean gloss greater thanor equal to
 70. 43. The method of using the goniochromatic/lightreflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 35, wherein saidgoniochromatic coloring agent is such that a variation Dh of the hueangle thereof of at least 60° is observed on a layer of such cosmeticmakeup composition for an illumination at 45° and a variation of theangle of observation of between 0° and 80°.
 44. The method of using thegoniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 35,wherein said reflective particles are from 20 μm to 50 μm in size. 45.The method of using the goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeupcomposition of claim 35, wherein said reflective particles are presentin the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 15% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.
 46. The method of usingthe goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim45, wherein said reflective particles are present in the composition inan amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weightof the composition.
 47. The method of using the goniochromatic/lightreflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 35, wherein saidreflective particles are in the form of platelets or spheres.
 48. Themethod of using the goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeupcomposition of claim 35, wherein said at least one goniochromaticcoloring agent comprises a liquid-crystal coloring agent or a multilayerinterference structure.
 49. The method of using the goniochromatic/lightreflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 35, wherein said atleast one goniochromatic coloring agent comprises a multilayerinterference structure selected from the group of structures consistingof Al/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Al; Cr/MgF₂/Al/MgF₂/Cr; MoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃;MOS₂/SiO₂/mica-oxide/SiO₂/MOS₂; Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/mica-oxide/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃,TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂; TiO₂/Al₂O₃/TiO₂, SnO/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/SnO,Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃ and SnO/Mica/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/Mica/SnO.
 50. The method ofusing the goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition ofclaim 49, wherein said at least one goniochromatic coloring agentcomprises a multilayer interference structure selected from the group ofstructures consisting of MoS₂/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/MoS₂;Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Al/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃ and Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃;SnO/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/SnO, Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃ andSnO/Mica/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/Mica/SnO.
 51. The method of using thegoniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 35,wherein said cosmetic makeup composition comprises a gloss base having amean gloss of greater than
 20. 52. The method of using thegoniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 51,wherein said gloss base has a mean gloss of greater than
 50. 53. Themethod of using the goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeupcomposition of claim 52, wherein said gloss base has a mean gloss ofgreater than
 70. 54. The method of using the goniochromatic/lightreflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 35, wherein saidcosmetic makeup composition comprises an oily phase having a rat-activeindex of between 1.47 and 1.51.
 55. The method of using thegoniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 35,wherein said cosmetic makeup composition further comprises at least onenon-goniochromatic coloring agent.
 56. The method of using thegoniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 55,wherein said at least one non-goniochromatic coloring agent beingselected from the group consisting of dyes, monochromatic pigments andnacres.
 57. The method of using the goniochromatic/light reflectingcosmetic makeup composition of claim 55, wherein said at least onenon-goniochromatic coloring agent comprises goniochromatic fibers. 58.The method of using the goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeupcomposition of claim 35, wherein said cosmetic makeup composition isformulated in anhydrous form, in the form of an oily or aqueoussolution, an oily or aqueous gel, an oil-in-water or water-in-oilemulsion, a multiple emulsion, a dispersion of oil in water by means ofvesicles located at the oil/water interface.
 59. The method of using thegoniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 35,wherein a liquid gloss comprising the cosmetic makeup composition isapplied to a support or a substrate, to create a volumizing effect. 60.The method of using the goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeupcomposition of claim 35, wherein a lip makeup comprising the cosmeticmakeup composition is applied to a support or a substrate, to create avolumizing effect.
 61. The method of using the goniochromatic/lightreflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 35, wherein a nailvarnish comprising the cosmetic makeup composition is applied to asupport or a substrate, to create a volumizing effect.
 62. The method ofusing the goniochromatic/light reflecting cosmetic makeup composition ofclaim 35, wherein a foundation comprising the cosmetic makeupcomposition is applied to a support or a substrate, to create avolumizing effect.
 63. The method of using the goniochromatic/lightreflecting cosmetic makeup composition of claim 35, wherein a mascaracomprising the cosmetic makeup composition is applied to a support or asubstrate, to create a volumizing effect.